Phalluses and Fairy Chimneys: Cappadocia in a Nutshell


I’ve been here in beautiful Göreme, Cappadocia for the past few days and while high season means the area is completely overrun with tourists, it’s still even more gorgeous than I had previously imagined. The unique landscape was formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago, and while everyone calls the resulting conical peaks “fairy chimneys”… let’s face it guys, we all know what they look like. I guess “massive stone penises” would just be too crude to appeal to the Turkish Tourism Board.

But why would fairies need such large chimneys, anyway? Continue reading

A Night Under the Stars in Wadi Rum


My new French friends and I hopped in a taxi at the Jordanian border and set off on our 45-minute drive to Wadi Rum. While Etienne sat up front and chatted with our driver, I spent most of the time looking out the window at the vast, unchanging desert landscape. Though Israel has miles of uninhabited desert as well, this seemed different somehow. We saw almost nothing: lots of sand and rocks with one main road running in between, a single railroad track (that I later learned doesn’t carry passengers and is mostly for show), and power lines. An amazing abundance of power lines, though I couldn’t tell you where they led to or from. Continue reading

Road Trip to the Weirdest Hostel in the World


After bumming around Jerusalem for a few days, I ran into two people I had met back in Tel Aviv, Jon and Jahan. Jon was on a mission to get down to Eilat for some diving in the Red Sea, and Jahan was looking for an adventure to fill her last few days before she flew back home. It was pretty easy for them to convince me to come along. (Actually they snuck into my dorm room one morning, stared at me until I woke up, and basically said “Are you in or what?”) Road Trip! Continue reading

Birthright Day 4: Mt. Arbel and the Baha’i Gardens

I knew before boarding the plane to Israel that I would probably have a difficult time with the Birthright itinerary and travel style, so I’m actually pretty surprised that it took until Day 4 for me to start getting annoyed.


We started off our day with a hike down Mount Arbel, still in the north of Israel. It was a beautiful view as we climbed down, and there were some very cool caves along the way along with a very impressive fortress built into the rock, but unfortunately we didn’t learn anything about them at all. It was around this time that I realized our tour guide might not be very good, and my opinion of him only went downhill from there. His whole schtick that had amused us for the first few days had worn off by then, and I felt like he wasn’t very knowledgable, or at least didn’t communicate clearly. When we were at the top of Mount Arbel waiting for some space to open up between us and the group in front of us (another constant problem with Birthright trips), he briefly told us that there were caves in the side of the mountain that people used to live in. But rather than tell us who these people were, when they lived there, or why (things I was quite interested to find out), instead he just shared some unrelated parable about a carob tree that I’m pretty sure I heard in Hebrew school when I was eight years old.


It was a rough hike down the mountain — yes, it was mostly downhill, but the path was quite steep with slippery, unsteady rocks in certain areas and the cliff edges were complete drops. It was absolutely beautiful, though. Unfortunately we were rushed along the whole time — to the point where half the time when I stopped to take pictures I was told to hurry up, I was falling behind the group (even though that wasn’t true because a good chunk of the group was there with me taking pictures!) We were told we should be constantly drinking water (which is obviously important in the full sun when climbing a mountain), but we only took one five minute break on the two or three hour hike. I found it exhausting and frustrating at times. What’s the point of a grueling hike in 95 degree heat if you can’t even enjoy the view for a moment?


Afterwards we had a quick ice cream at the stand by the bottom of the trail (quite a lucrative business concept they’ve got going on there) before bussing off to Haifa for about 5 minutes at the Baha’i Gardens. I wish I were kidding. It felt like a cursory visit, something we did just so they could say “See? We don’t only focus on Jewish holy sites!” but I feel like the hasty visit and extremely basic Baha’i 101 we got only emphasized it and made the site feel like a throwaway in our itinerary. I’d love to go back on my own and spend more time there, visiting the inner garden as well.


After that ridiculous charade of inclusivity, we boarded the bus once again and drove to a small park where we would finally meet the seven Israeli peers who would be joining us for the next five days of our trip. There was a weird song and dance about this too: when we showed up to the park the Israelis were all already there, but we were led straight past them. Our guide and trip leaders kept us separated for like 10 minutes (while they introduced themselves and talked to the Israelis, I guess), so it was super awkward when we all finally met. Somehow they were all tall and attractive and seemed older than us, even though most were younger (I guess it’s the military that does it). Then since it was Friday, we were only given about 20 minutes for a very late lunch before the shops all closed for Shabbat. More rushing around!


Tayrona National Park Pt. 3: Sleeping in hammocks is overrated.

[This is Part 3 of my Tayrona adventure. Part 1 can be found here and Part 2 here.]


So when I left off last I had been crowing about how I scored the last available hammock in the mirador for the night. I may have celebrated that victory a bit too quickly though, because those fancy hammocks are up at the top of this big rock formation and right over the water, and it was absolutely freezing once the sun went down! Plus, my amazing luck meant that it took until that exact day, nearly two weeks into my trip, for the traveler’s sickness to hit and that was the furthest area from the camp restroom. It also meant a somewhat treacherous climb in the dark over slippery rocks. (Seriously guys, bring a flashlight, no matter where in Tayrona you end up staying.) Continue reading

Tayrona National Park Pt. 2: Arrecifes to Cabo San Juan

[This is part 2 of my Tayrona adventure. Part 1 can be found here.]


After taking leave of our horses at the end of the trail, we walked through a small campsite until we got our first view of beach, Arrecifes. It was absolutely beautiful, the most breathtaking scenery I had seen so far in Colombia. The beach was surprisingly still and quiet, probably owing to the fact that the currents there are too dangerous to swim in so people don’t tend to stay there. There are big signs proclaiming this fact: Continue reading

Tayrona National Park Pt. 1: The Trail to Arrecifes

Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona is a protected nature reserve and national park along the Caribbean coast of Colombia, renowned for its varied landscapes and climates: mountains, forest, and beaches are all nestled right up against each other and provide a unique environment for a huge range of flora and fauna. It was one of the few places I knew I had to go to while I was in Colombia, and after I’d had my fill of Santa Marta I headed off with two other travelers I’d met at my hostel, Susan and Jay. Continue reading