Lazy Days

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I’m here in Olympos, on the Lycian Coast, and I’ve decided that it’s the perfect place to wind down my last few days in Turkey. This is definitely a backpacker town, and I’ve been doing little else but lounging around the guesthouse garden in a hammock, going to the beach, and if we’re really feeling adventurous, walking twenty minutes up the road for coffee and dessert. (And I have finally found a place in this country that serves real coffee! Actual, sippable drip coffee, in a decent sized mug with real milk! It has been ages since I’ve had anything but Nescafe or small but potent shots of Turkish coffee.) Continue reading

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Phalluses and Fairy Chimneys: Cappadocia in a Nutshell

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I’ve been here in beautiful Göreme, Cappadocia for the past few days and while high season means the area is completely overrun with tourists, it’s still even more gorgeous than I had previously imagined. The unique landscape was formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago, and while everyone calls the resulting conical peaks “fairy chimneys”… let’s face it guys, we all know what they look like. I guess “massive stone penises” would just be too crude to appeal to the Turkish Tourism Board.

But why would fairies need such large chimneys, anyway? Continue reading

Pamukkale, The Cotton Castle

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After two nights in Selçuk, I took the three-hour bus ride to the small village of Pamukkale. It was even smaller than I expected, truly a one-horse town that seems to be entirely sustained by the tourism industry. Accommodation options there were rather limited: the hostel I booked had pretty good ratings but was actually kind of weird, and the bathroom door in our dorm didn’t actually close. But honestly, it’s not like anyone is really going to spend more than a night there. Continue reading

A Day at Ephesus

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After my late arrival in Selçuk the night before, I was excited to get up and visit Ephesus, the whole reason I headed there in the first place. I had a nice breakfast at the guesthouse, then walked across the street to the bus station and caught the dolmuş (shared taxi/shuttle) to the entrance gate — it’s about a 3km drive and costs 2.50 lira. At the ticket window, I hesitated over whether to pay the extra 15TL to see the “terrace houses”, not really knowing what they were, but I decided to go for it and I’m so glad I did. They were definitely my favorite part of the whole place. Continue reading

How I Pissed Off a Jordanian Cab Driver

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Siq Al-Barid, known as Little Petra, is a smaller Natabean city about a twenty minute drive from Wadi Musa. I’d heard it was pretty cool, and though I worried it might pale in comparison after Petra itself, admission is free so I figured I may as well check it out.

The people at my hotel arranged transport for me and said that the best time to go is a little before sunset. I took it easy for most of the day and then my cab driver, a boisterous middle-aged man, picked me up at around 5 PM. We made the short drive to the site, chatting the whole way, and he dropped me off at the gate and went to go drink tea and wait for me. Continue reading

Petra Day 2: The High Place of Sacrifice & The Royal Tombs

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My second day in Petra I started out with two goals: tackle the second major climb, to the High Place of Sacrifice, and avoid any sketchy too-familiar Bedouins trying to lure me into mule rides… or more. I had one lazy day of riding (and was slightly uncomfortable the whole time), so today I promised myself I would be working for that view. Continue reading